Winery: Hermann Ludes
Winemaker: Julian Ludes
Origin: Thornicher, Mosel, Germany
Farming Practices: Organic practicing
Type of Soil: Slate
Varietals: 100% Riesling
Alcohol %: 10%
Acidity g/l: 10.8 g
Residual Sugar g/l: 20 g
From the Importer: " Even though we are blessed with our growers in the Mosel, well, we’ve always wanted more. Why? This is a magical place; its wines are unlike anything else on earth. We wanted more of this place. And this is the first Mosel Estate in 9 years that we've taken, let that tell you something about how important we think it is"
The young grower is Julian Ludes, whose grandfather Hermann Ludes had started the eponymous estate in the 1950s. Ludes has flown under the radar for decades for a number of reasons. First, the village Thörnich is located in an upper section of the Mosel, far away from the famous “Hollywood Mile” of the Mosel. Further, Thörnich is legendary for shaping wines that are raw and tensile; the wines of Hermann Ludes especially can be brutally structured. In other words, these are not easy wines.
Yes – not one but two “Kabinett Feinherbs” in the collection. The “Gackes Unten” is sourced from a prime, central parcel of the Ritch, under the “Gackes,” which, you might imagine, is yet another word in the Mosel dialect for slate. The parcel is, literally under a small wall of slate. This is a remarkably stoney part of the vineyard with very shallow soil planted to 85-year-old ungrafted vines with very low yields. This is the drier wine at 20g of residual sugar and 10.8g of acid.
This is simply a superlative wine – the only benchmarks we can think of are Stein’s Himmelreich Kabinett Feinherb and those of Hofgut Falkenstein. The nose is outrageously stoney, again that salty slatey note similar to the village-level Thörnich. This is a perplexing wine, with so much mineral and citrus and spice, yet also just a profoundly refreshing and clean cream note, though not at all malic or heavy feeling. So much fresh garden-greenness, a floral citrus-cream quality, yet an invigorating, crystalline and angelic-feeling delicacy. Super